Austin: The Live Music Capital of the World

By L. Paul Mann

I have never seen a city so obsessed with live music as Austin, Texas.

It was apparent from the moment I arrived at the airport. As I strolled through the terminal on my way to the baggage claim, I passed no less than three bars blurting out tunes from live bands. At the center of the airport was a metal stage from which another band pumped out original pop melodies. An inscription at the base of the stage made the bold claim: "Austin: The Live Music Capital of the World."

I was there for the three-day Austin City Limits Music Festival. It was my second attendance, to cover one of the largest annual music festivals in the country, with over 130 major acts performing on eight stages. The sold-out event, then in its fifth year, was an eclectic feast of live pop music, but it was also just the base of a live music volcano that poured hot audio lava out of hundreds of downtown nightclubs and bars.

The Austin Music Festival is an international event attracting media from all around the world. The weather however, became the principle story both years I attended. In 2005, the day before the event, the local weather forecast tracked hurricane Rita rolling straight into Houston and then inland toward Austin. It was also the third day of a record heat wave with temperatures topping 100 degrees.

The festival began in these conditions, but by Saturday the hurricane had turned east, avoiding most of Texas. By Sunday, however, the last day of the festival, the hurricane again affected Austin’s weather by pulling in hot, dry air from the desert, and the city recorded the hottest Fall temperature in history: 108 degrees.

The hot, dusty conditions didn’t deter the fans, however, and a crowd of 65,000 people flooded Austin's Zilker Park all three days of the event. The actual attendance was probably closer to 100,000, by the time you added all the volunteers, workers, bands, media, and their friends with passes.

The music was well under way by the time I arrived the first day, with bands playing on at least half of the eight stages simultaneously. It was hard to pick who you wanted to see, and with some of the stages nearly a mile apart, a strategy was needed to see some of my favorites.

Many audiophiles, like myself, scrambled back and forth in the hot and humid conditions, trying to absorb as much music as possible. Some of the locals had a much more civilized approach, however, sauntering into the festival to catch a few sets, then taking a short walk to nearby Barton Springs for a cool dip. Barton Springs is a large natural spring over 900 feet long, with the water at a near constant, refreshing 68 degrees, making it the perfect respite from the scorching conditions.

The first day was a great introduction to this eclectic event. The lineup was heavily weighted with some of the newest names in British pop, like Keane and Kasabian. There were also some very diverse acts like the Gospel All Stars and country singer Jeff Black. But the common thread connecting most participants was the overwhelming showcase of guitar-based music. From the opening, this was evident from the inclusion of legends like Lyle Lovett, The Black Crowes, and the Allman Brothers Band.

The subsequent days reinforced the guitar-heavy theme. Texas bands like Grady (a power trio reminiscent of Cream), Dave Alvin, and Widespread Panic got the crowds jumping. Other American bands like The Black Keys, Death Cab for Cutie and Wilco also performed. The band Jet represented Australia, while the Walkmen appeared on Ireland's behalf. English bands like Oasis, Franz Ferdinand, The Kaiser Chiefs, and headliners Coldplay also worked their magic.

Then there were the jam bands Austin is so famous for hosting in their many downtown bars. Bands like Arcade Fire and Thievery Corporation were not performing in the festival, but also playing smaller shows in Austin's vibrant downtown clubs.

It was hard to find a taxi for the seven-mile drive back to the city center, so most people just walked. The Barton Springs Road back to downtown is a long strip of bars, barbecue restaurants, and fast food joints stretching about six miles. Arriving shortly before midnight, I decided to check out some of this city's famous nightlife.

I stopped in at the packed Stubb’s Barbecue where some of the festival bands were playing on two separate stages. I asked the doorman if the bars were only this busy during the festival and was told it was pretty much the norm throughout the year. Nearby 6th Street, for instance, is the disco capital of Austin, with the road shut down for the mass of partyers it draws on the weekends.

Three things surprised me about the people of Austin. First and foremost is their liberal attitude, as Texas is the center of the "Red State" conservative power base. But all the people I spoke to agreed that Austin is a very "blue" city in an otherwise big, red state. Reportedly, Willie Nelson was asked a while back how he liked living in Texas. He replied, "I don’t live in Texas, I live in Austin." One of the unofficial mottoes of the city and most popular T-shirt inscriptions is "Keep Austin Weird" -- and the locals do a very good job of it.

Secondly, I have never seen such gracious and well-mannered fans. No one during the entire three days of the festival passed near me without saying "pardon me" or "excuse me." Giggly young teen girls were polite and inquisitive about my camera and press credentials, and spoke in measured drawls laden with Southern charm.

Finally, the girls I meet in California who come from Texas are mostly models and, consequently, very tall. I looked back at the huge crowds from the press pit and was surprised to see how short many of the people were. I guess not all Texans are as tall as the clichés claim.

The second day of the festival played out much as the first had, with the addition of a strong wind blowing the grassy fields into a dust bowl. Many festival goers resorted to wearing handkerchiefs over their faces like masked bandits. Now I know why they were so essential in the Old West.

By the third day the conditions were pretty brutal. The clouds had vanished from the air, but the dust continued to blow, and the record 108 degree heat was relentless. Yet the fans were determined to see their favorite bands perform and swarmed the stages eagerly for to the triumphant Coldplay finale.

The 2006 festival was even more diverse, with performances by '60s rocker Ian McLagan, Gnarls Barkley, Los Amigos Invisibles, The Flaming Lips, and Muse, representing a wide swath of modern music. Bands like TV on the Radio were playing small stages early in the afternoon, but you could tell they were on their way to commercial success by the enthusiasm of the tightly packed crowd of frenzied fans. And from Jack White of the Raconteurs and the White Stripes to John Mayer, the guitar gods were out in full force.

Tom Petty closed out the festival with a bang -- literally. Halfway into his twilight set, dark clouds enveloped the park as Austin glittered in the distance. Soon the city skyline disappeared in the darkness and lightning began illuminating the horizon as a deluge of rain sent the 65,000 festival goers scrambling for cover...but not before witnessing one of the largest and most diverse pop festivals in the world. Any hardcore live music fan has to experience Austin at least once in their lifetime.

Way to go Austin. Keep it weird.

See more photos of The Austin City Limits Music Festival (click here)

For more information on the 2007 lineup and ticket sales, visit the ACL festival website: www.aclfestival.com/default.aspx

For more information on Downtown Austin visit: www.downtownaustin.com