Athens, Greece

By Sierra Brasher

If Athens, Greece is the “City of Dreams”, then the fact that it’s only a ferry ride away from some of the most picturesque islands in the world makes it that much more surreal. If not for the culture, architecture, and history the city has to offer for your touring pleasure, then go for its proximity to the 10,000 or so neighboring islands such as Ios, Mykonos and Santorini. I lived in Athens, and that indirectly translates to this: I lived in a dream, and I am only just now waking up and realizing what this really signifies.

Anyone trekking through Europe should make a pit-stop here to experience life in the birthplace of the Olympic Games, the crucible of Democracy, and the home of Socrates -- a life truly fit for Dionysos. But even more than that, Athens is the cultural mecca of the entire world where the sound of the bustling outdoor taverns and cafes actually competes with the clamor of motor scooters buzzing through the streets and construction on every corner. That’s Athens. Love it or leave it.

It’s not every day that one has the once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to travel back in time to view history in the making. To voyage to the oldest city in Europe means that you can get lost in the winding streets of Plaka, walk to the edge of the Acropolis, stand in the exact spot in the ancient Agora where Socrates used to deliver his speeches and go for a run through the marble Panathenaic Stadium where the first modern Olympics were held in 1896. For the nature-lover and athlete, take a hike up Lycavetus Hill to see a view of the entire city. And for those like myself, make sure to take advantage of those 2 Euro big bottles of Mythos beer. You can do all this in a couple of days (and save the rest of your trip for island hopping through the Mediterranean), but living there gave me a whole different perspective of this concrete jungle.
The city is overwhelming, but it’s easier to swallow when you think of it as a collection of several neighborhoods; each one having its own individual style and atmosphere. There’s something for everyone. I found myself most often in the area just outside of Plaka called Psirri (pronounced “sear-ee”). With its younger crowds and ultra-hip vibe, endless outdoor cafes, unique restaurant selection, bar after bar filled with locals and tourists and thriving live music scene, there is always something going on. Make sure to pack your trendy Euro gear if you don’t want to stand out. Many of the locals in Psirri could pass for models strutting down a Greek runway. Tourists wearing their t-shirts and flip flops will definitely feel a bit underdressed should they pass through here at night.

Though the city is fairly tourist-friendly today, it wasn’t always so inviting, and I just happened to live there at a time when Athens was undergoing a metamorphosis. There was no way to avoid the changes that were taking place throughout the city. While I complained about the jack hammers that went bump in the night, the seemingly endless road construction and the minor nuisances caused by round-the-clock construction, the truth is that it was necessary. The city needed to make these improvements to host the thousands of tourists that flock its way every year. It has overcome a great deal more in its history than construction, and this was just another obstacle in its long line of bumpy roads.

Patience is a virtue you must value on your trip into Athens. I witnessed first-hand that Greeks have the tendency to put things off, and I have even joked that their favorite word is “avrio,” which means, “tomorrow.” When can I pick up my package from the post office? Avrio. When will you fix my DSL internet connection? Avrio. When can I get a confirmation on my hotel room reservation? Avrio. When will my tofu souvlaki be a fixed item on the Greek menu? Not today. Not avrio. Never will Greece satisfy my vegetarian cravings. At first, I was annoyed by their ability to put things off as long as possible, but I accepted this strange phenomenon when I came to the realization that they do get things done; they just choose to get things done on “Greek time.” Instead of getting angry or impatient, just laugh about it with the deep-down, secure feeling that they never leave a job unfinished.

So when the hotel clerk tells you that your room is “being cleaned”, don’t lose your cool. Take a deep breath and use your time to soak in the culture. Eat some olives and Gyros in Plaka, sip a NesCafe frappe or a glass of wine with the locals in the outdoor cafes or stroll through the high-end shops of Kolonaki. In a country where it seems the natives get a standard 10 hours per night of beauty sleep, procrastination isn’t a fault; it’s a way of life.

Every single day, I stepped outside my apartment to discover something about the city that made me appreciate it even more. A perfect example of these seemingly small changes was the outward helpfulness of the people in the Metro station.

When I first moved there, I was confused and lost in the underground tunnel of transportation (which became an all-too-familiar feeling that I choose to ignore for lack of acceptance) when I took my usual pause to check out the map posted next to the ticket stand. Every single day that I lived in Athens, I stared at this map for at least two full minutes, in hopes that I would suddenly have a revelation and know exactly where I wanted to go and exactly how to get there. Secretly, I always dreamed that some helpful Greek transportation expert would tap me on the shoulder and ask (in perfect English, of course), “Can I help you find something? Oh, you are trying to get to ____? Well, let me just point you in the right direction so you don’t strain your eyes.” Then, he would show me which line to take, where I would need to exit in order to change lines and how to get to my final destination once I left the station. Well, to my surprise and disbelief, this is exactly what happened to me one day, and hopefully, it will happen to you on your visit.

I went up to the window to purchase my Metro ticket, and in broken Greek, requested one ticket, please (“Ena, parakalo,” for those of you brushing up before your trip). The man responded, in English (!), “Sure. Where are you trying to go? Can I offer you assistance on the best way to get there?” I literally almost fainted right then and there. Where was this guy when I needed him all those months before? I would have traded a tofu souvlaki for this type of help when I first arrived in Athens. I thanked him genuinely, and I set


off with the proud feeling that my city was really cleaning up its act. It’s the little things in life that really count.

Is the city rich in greenery and sparse in road construction today? No. But English speakers around the world can rejoice in knowing that no matter how lost and confused you are during your visit, some friendly face will be there to help point you in the general direction. After you’ve seen the Acropolis and filled your stomach with feta ; when heat stroke strikes and patience is running low, make sure to have someone point you in the direction of the ferry to the islands.