Cedar Key: The Little Town at the End of the Road

by Vern Hobbs

“The sunsets here are amazing!” exclaimed a recent visitor to Cedar Key.
Sunsets are just one reason people fall in love with this tiny island town. Fishing, kayaking, birding, fine art, and dining are some of the others. But perhaps the greatest seduction of this eclectic hamlet is its steadfast refusal to adhere to the dizzying pace of modern life.

In a way, time has stood still here. The days drift by in a carefree rhythm regulated by tides and seasons, rather than clocks and calendars. Cedar Key’s aversion to the rat race is due largely to the fact that it lies well off the proverbial beaten path.

Situated half-way between Tampa and Tallahassee, on the least developed portion of Florida’s west coast, Cedar Key occupies two of thirteen islands known collectively as the Cedar Keys. The other uninhabited eleven islands make up the Cedar Keys National Wildlife Refuge and protected from development. There is only one road into town. State Highway 24, which links Cedar Key to the mainland across four bridges, threads its way through fifty miles of pine forested woodlands to Gainesville and Interstate 75.

So, what keeps a sleepy town at the end of the road alive? Tourism helps, but Cedar Key still earns its living from the sea. Founded by early Florida statesman and entrepreneur, David Levy Yulee in the 1830’s, Cedar Key once thrived as an industrial port. Sawmills converted virgin Cypress trees into lumber, factories made pencils from the native Red Cedar, and steamships docked daily, carrying goods to market in New Orleans and Havana. The depletion of timber and the destruction of an 1896 hurricane ended Cedar Key’s manufacturing era. In its place commercial fishing became both the town’s lifeblood and its identity. Then, in 1995, statewide restrictions on net fishing threatened to do what hurricanes and depressions could not -- turn Cedar Key into a ghost town. Down, but not out, local fishermen teamed up with the Florida Aquaculture Association, obtained grants, trained themselves to produce farm raised clams, and brought their island community back from the brink of extinction. Today, Cedar Key proudly proclaims itself to be the nation’s leading producer of Little Neck Clams. Chowder, anyone?

The same pristine environment that spawned a robust clam industry also makes these islands a haven for nature lovers. In addition to the eleven islands of the Cedar Keys Refuge, the Lower Suwannee Wildlife Refuge and the Cedar Key Scrub State Preserve combine to provide a vast, protected habitat making this region worthy of their title: “Florida’s Nature Coast.” Countless migratory birds winter here, and thousands more nest each spring. The Nature Coast represents the best hope of survival for many threatened and endangered species.


The rich coastal wilderness that surrounds Cedar Key is best experienced from the water. Nature-focused boat tours depart frequently from the City Marina. These group excursions last about an hour and typically include a stop at the state recreation area on nearby Atsena Otie Island with its hiking trails and sandy beaches. More in-depth guided tours for individuals and small groups, plus trips to the more remote islands, as well as boat rentals are also available.

Kayaking is a great way to experience the natural beauty of the Cedar Keys, and one that is growing in popularity. Hiring a professional guide, versed in the local ecology and history is a sure way to enrich the experience. Guide services and kayak rentals are available from several local outfitters. While the 1995 net-ban remains a passionate and controversial topic around town, some feel that the measure resulted in a much more fertile marine fishery, and in turn great sport fishing. Full and half-day off-shore and in-shore charters are available from a number of experienced Captains. A complete listing of licensed guides and outfitters who will provide the perfect day of fishing, kayaking, or exploring the natural wonders of the Cedar Keys is available at the Chamber of Commerce, located on Second Street, or by visiting their web site: www.cedarkey.org.

The quaint charm of Cedar Key is apparent at first glance, but a deeper look reveals a true renaissance city cleverly disguised as a backwater fishing village. For instance, Cedar Key supports two newspapers, The Cedar Key Beacon, published weekly, and the bi-weekly Cedar Key News. How many small towns have a poetry society? Cedar Key does, plus a junior writers’ group, and a well-stocked book store, all in a town with fewer than 1,000 residents!

History buffs will find two interesting museums, both worth a visit. The Cedar Key State Museum, located on Museum Drive and operated by the Florida Park Service, chronicles the natural and Native American history of the region. The Cedar Key Historical Society Museum, at the corner of Highway 24 and Second Street, depicts the history of the town and its people from the 1830s to the present. Popular exhibits showcase the Civil War period, and the community’s commercial fishing heritage.

Much of Cedar Key’s charm stems from a very active arts community. The Cedar Key Arts Center, located on Second Street, promotes the efforts of local artists and hosts gallery shows throughout the year. Numerous, interactive workshops are conducted on an ongoing basis. Notable among these is the Community Boat Building Project. Initiated by Chris Harkness of the Arts Center, the project recognizes the design and construction of wooden boats as an art form. The project connects elders who possess this knowledge and skill with interested youth. Together they have built numerous historically authentic craft representative of those used in the heyday of the commercial fishing industry.

Culinary artisans are also plentiful in Cedar Key. Every restaurant is locally owned and operated offering its distinct flavor of food and atmosphere. For dinner with a view, stroll down Dock Street, home to five very popular restaurants all with direct Gulf views. Local seafood specialties vary seasonally, but are always the best choice. The dining room at the Island Hotel affords casual elegance in a genteel southern atmosphere. After dinner stop by Neptune’s Lounge, just off the lobby, to enjoy some live Jazz, or perhaps even Bluegrass music.

Gourmet Italian cuisine crafted around fresh, gulf seafood is the specialty of the Island Room, located in the Cedar Cove Resort. For the best breakfast and lunch spots, follow the locals to Anne’s Other Place on Dock Street, or Annie’s on Highway 24.

All of Cedar Key’s chefs gather to show off their talents every October during the annual Seafood Festival. Sponsored by the Lion’s Club, this weekend long celebration is Cedar Key’s grandest yearly event. The festivities kick off Saturday morning with a parade featuring marching bands, local dignitaries, and some of the island’s most colorful characters. During the festival weekend the University of Florida opens to the public it’s otherwise restricted marine research station, located in the fabled lighthouse on nearby Seahorse Key.

Despite its diminutive size, Cedar Key offers plentiful lodging accommodations with a wide range of amenities and prices. Those seeking the charm of the old south will find the Island Hotel to be the quintessential choice. Established in 1859, and now on the National Register of Historic Places, the hotel offers ten rooms reminiscent of Hemingway’s Key West.

“Gracious,” best describes the Cedar Key Bed and Breakfast. With seven rooms, each individually decorated, and a wide, shady front porch, the B & B has a distinctly New England flavor.
Budget minded travelers will find six small motels in Cedar Key, plus three well maintained RV parks. Like the restaurants, all are locally owned and operated. Visit the Chamber of Commerce, or their web-site: www.cedarkey.org , for an up-to-date list of accommodations.

With kayaks to paddle, fish to catch, art to admire, and so many other things to do, Cedar Key offers far more than its tiny size might suggest. But, perhaps the best thing to do is, well, nothing. Idle away a few hours, or the whole day, fishing on Dock Street. Walk along the shore at dawn as the red sky fills with thousands of birds. Read a good book while waiting for another splendid sunset.

It’s Okay. Clocks, schedules, and “to do” lists don’t carry much weight here in Cedar Key, the little fishing village at the end of the road.