Cocoa Beach Thai and Sushi

By Tobin Bennison

Longtime residents of Cocoa Beach have been witness to a lot of changes over the years, not the least of which have been the many businesses that have come and gone with almost tidal frequency.

But that doesn't stop a few die-hard locals from giving directions according to landmarks which have long since disappeared. To them, the Post Office, for instance, isn't at 500 N. Brevard Ave., but "behind the Glass Bank where Brassy's used to be." Conversations can often turn into a battle of memories; a game of one-upmanship in which the participants unsheath their archeological gear in a race to uncover a spot's aboriginal identity.
Yes, memories die slow deaths around these parts, but mercifully, the staff at Cocoa Beach Thai & Sushi -- you know, where Thai Dixie used to be -- make the process quick and painless.

One of the first things that strikes you upon entering, apart from the brighter interior and sporty new logo, is the brightness of the new staff spirit. Whether you've come before or not, you're greeted like an old friend, and every effort is made to keep you feeling comfortable, happy, and relaxed.

It says something about the changing times that one of the most popular neighborhood restaurants in town serves Thai and Japanese food. Those same loyal local nostalgists can also probably remember a time when their favorite neighborhood eatery served strictly American fare: cheeseburgers, fried eggs, and BLTs. Now it seems everyone's favorite weekly habit includes one of the new wave of ethnic eateries which have sprouted up along our shores. Where once there was a smattering of Italian, Mexican, and Chinese places around town, there's now Roman, Cuban, Jamaican, Greek, Japanese and Thai. A little over 15 years ago, the average resident could barely differentiate between Chinese and Thai food. To many of us back then, it was all Asian food; now we've all become connoisseurs of this rich culture's multi-faceted cuisine.

If being blessed with the "neighborhood" descriptor connotes a place where everyone knows your name, the food is consistently and reliably excellent and fresh, and the atmosphere is casual and easeful, then Cocoa Beach Thai and Sushi has earned it easily. It's as suitable a place for a quick bite or a weeknight family outing as it is for an intimate romantic meal.

The Thai staff, comprised of Sky, Num, Bobby, and Noom, all worked together previously for a restaurant in Miami, and though they enjoyed themselves and learned vital lessons, their own venture gives them the flexibility and freedom to bring out the best of both Thai and Japanese cuisines. What's more, though you'll often find Sky and Bobby waiting tables, Num cooking up the meals in the kitchen, and Noom creating sushi masterpieces behind the bar, their amazing versatility allows them to switch duties with each other without ever missing a beat.

Everything here is made to order -- which is incredible, considering the dishes they offer number close to 350 -- and if you'd happen to like something they don't offer from their large menu, if they have the essential ingredients, they'll whip it together for you. That menu is more like a 16-page pamphlet and is worth grabbing to skim through at home in preparation for your next meal. However, the good folks at CBT&S can guide you through its expanse with recommendations and advice gleaned from the flavors you crave, and all dishes can be prepared mild, medium, hot, or Thai hot, depending on your taste.

The dishes, of course, are stellar, be they the deeply-hued flavors of Thai, or the light, clean taste of Japanese. The beauty of CBT&S is that you can mix and match items from both disparate cuisines without ever having to leave your seat. Giving ourselves over willingly to this harmonious coupling they offer, we ordered a little bit of everything: a large "Dragon Roll" (shrimp tempura rolled with avocado), a spicy tuna hand roll, steamed ginger fish, yellow curry chicken and potatoes, rejuvenative Tom Kha soup, and one of their most popular items, Pad Thai.

Readers hardly need an introduction to the understated wonders of Thai and Sushi; suffice it to say that it's all here: from appetizers and soups, and seafood and meat dishes, to curries, noodles, and donburi. CBT&S has it all. In fact, you could probably eat here twice a week for a year and never order the same thing twice.

The sushi is some of the best -- and best looking -- around. Sit up at the sushi bar and choose your favorites, or let Noom create a combination for you. Whatever you take, the result looks and tastes impeccable. Back in the kitchen, Num churns out a wealth of rich local favorites: Pad Kee Mao (a flat rice noodle served with a basil sauce with your choice of chicken, pork, beef, shrimp, vegetable, or tofu), spicy beef salad, crisp fish cakes, piquant hot and sour soups (with or without coconut milk), fresh seafood, papaya salad, tempura, stir frys, and Japanese noodles like udon (wheat), soba (buckwheat), or ramen (made with egg)...the list goes on. And on...

You'll find everything fresh and subtly delicious. Num's genius is in allowing each individual flavor to shine through. Though the whole is delicious, it's each individual part that stands out: the coconut milk, the lemongrass, the garlic, the basil, the homemade curry paste, the broth, the sauce -- it's everything you love about Thai food.

As I said, drop in for a menu to peruse at your leisure or ask the kind folks inside to help you out -- they're there to answer your questions. A wealth of generous, bargain lunch specials are available during those hours, and the regular dinner menu features many sushi dinner combination plates at reasonable prices. Dishes can be adapted according to dietary needs and tastes and vegetarians are always welcome.Stock up on new memories and friends at Cocoa Beach Thai & Sushi -- where the Sinclair gas station used to be back in the day.

Cocoa Beach Thai & Sushi is located at 24 N. Orlando Ave. at the corner of Minutemen Cswy. and A1A heading south. They're open Tuesdays through Fridays from 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. with lunch specials and re-open for dinner at 5 p.m. until 10:30 p.m. On Saturdays and Sundays, they're open continuously from 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. with lunch specials served until 3 p.m. On Mondays, they open from 5 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. CBT&S offer a wide range of beverages including beer, wine, soft drinks, and hot or cold sake. Gift certificates are available, as are deliveries within five miles (which require larger orders) and, of course, take out orders. Call ahead (868-0066) for pick up, reservations for parties of 6 or more, and catering requests. They can work with you to create a menu of your choice, or can put one together their way for $100. Please give 24 hr. notice.

Stock up on new memories and friends at Cocoa Beach Thai & Sushi -- where the Sinclair gas station used to be, back in the day.

Cocoa Beach Thai & Sushi is located at 24 N. Orlando Ave. at the corner of Minutemen Cswy. and A1A heading south. They're open Tuesdays through Fridays from 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. with lunch specials and re-open for dinner at 5 p.m. until 10:30 p.m. On Saturdays and Sundays, they're open continuously from 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. with lunch specials served until 3 p.m. On Mondays, they open from 5 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. CBT&S offer a wide range of beverages including beer, wine, soft drinks, Thai iced tea and coffee, and hot or cold sake. Gift certificates are available, as are deliveries within five miles (which require larger orders) and, of course, take out orders. Call ahead (868-0066) for pick up, reservations for parties of 6 or more, and catering requests. They can work with you to create a menu of your choice, or can put one together their way for $100. Please give 24 hr. notice.