Dos Amigos

By Tobin Bennison

Among the many types of ethnic food available throughout America, Mexican is probably the most popular and widely represented, and for those very reasons, sadly, one of the most frequently ruined.

Chances are, you’ve had more bad Mexican food than good, a fact which has unfairly lowered your expectations. When you do come across an excellent example, it tends to overshadow those numberless nights of gastric turmoil and reminds you that above all, Mexican’s success hinges on freshness. Many chains have caught on to this “revolutionary” notion, but though their lettuce may be crisp, their personality is woefully wilted. The danger in seeking out authentic dives is in getting thrice-refried beans and humidified nachos. Frankly, it’s hard to find that harmonious balance of fresh food and atmosphere; it’s even harder to believe that Indialantic’s Cantina Dos Amigos has been dishing it out for close to 20 years.

Cantina Dos Amigos’ casual interior is crowded with festive decorations and props which clearly have a personal history behind them, unlike the mass-purchased kitsch adorning every Mexican chain from here to Cancun. On the walls are several albums’ worth of photos contributed by faithful customers over the years, a fanbase which will soon pass over to a new generation. The interior is spacious; the long bar area houses many high top tables and there’s a brighter seating area off to the side where a daily buffet is served. Along the front of the Cantina is a breezy patio area. Cool tunes waft through the sound system and over 70 different bottles of tequila glisten behind the full liquor bar. Yep, the Cantina is one of the most authentic Mexican places around. But what about the food?

Winning the coveted “Best of Brevard” award for 6 years straight and being part of the extended Lou’s Blues family should be reasons enough to visit the Cantina, yet owners Terry Thomas and Kim Salter aren’t content to simply rest on Lou’s hard-earned laurels. They see the larger picture and know that small details are what give that picture its enduring identity. Take, for example, the bare minimum you expect from any Mexican eatery: introductory chips and salsa. The Cantina set the table with a basket of steaming fresh chips and salsa, made earlier that day. From that point on, they had us hooked. You can taste the difference.

Not only are their sauces, salsas, and chips prepared fresh each day, but their guacamole is the real deal, made from plump Hass avocados. The guacamole alone is one of the Cantina’s most requested take-out dishes; people just can’t get enough. A lover of cilantro is, by and large, a lonely fellow, for his favorite herb is widely despised for what many refer to as its “tin foil-y” flavor. As far as I’m concerned, you can’t have Mexican food without fresh cilantro, yet I took its noticeable absence from the salsa in understanding stride. All the same, we thought we’d ask. Lo and behold, a small bowl of the fragrant stuff was given to us upon request and we sprinkled it liberally over everything.

There are as many regional styles of Mexican cuisine as there are villages in that country, but the Cantina serves up what they call “Southern California Sonoran” style, which blends Mexican and American flavors and techniques into a palate-pleasing whole. People come from as far as Orlando come to enjoy their version and a strong local following ensures that the family-friendly Cantina is always hopping.
We were fine with our chips, salsa, and guacamole, but the rest of their appetizers beg inclusion. There’s a Mexican pizza (a crisp flour tortilla covered with sauce, ground beef, black olives, tomatoes, scallions, mushrooms, and melted cheese, with an option to add chicken), a spinach dip, chili con queso, a spicy bean dip called “Frijoles Diablo,” traditional nachos stacked to the heavens, quesadillas, wings, and “Armadillo Eggs,” jalapenos stuffed with cream cheese and cheddar.

For our dinner, we ordered two burritos and a plate of sizzling fajitas. The Ranchero burrito comes filled with your choice of chicken, ground beef, shredded beef, cheese, refried beans or black beans, as well as lettuce tomatoes, and scallions. I took chicken (all of the Cantina’s chicken is boneless, skinless breast meat) and stuffed myself silly. Covered with a tomato-based homemade ranchero sauce and topped with melted monterey jack and cheddar cheese, the portion was formidable, but not unmanageable. The Bandito, filled with beef, was equally delicious, complimented by savory black beans, sour cream, and zesty salsa. Among the other items offered were tacos (soft tacos available upon request), tostadas, chili rellenos, enchiladas, chimichangas, and tamales. All dinners come with tortilla soup, Spanish rice, refried beans, and a delicate brown-sugared churro.

Their “From the Sea” menu includes shrimp and spinach enchiladas, shrimp fajitas, shrimp asada (sauteed with red and green bell pepper, Spanish onions, and salsa), pescado diablo (grilled fresh fish seasoned with spices), and Dos Amigos Seafood Especial, tender shrimp and krab sauteed in a seasoned butter sauce with salsa, tomatoes, scallions, black olives, and mushrooms, all stuffed into a rolled flour tortilla and topped with melted cheese. Their salad selctions include a guacamole salad in a tortilla shell, an avocado salad, and a heaping taco salad filled with everything under the sun.
The lunch menu, basically an a la carte version of the dinner menu, is just as extensive, but many flock to the Cantina for their $5.95 all-you-can-eat lunch buffet, a deal if there ever was one. Much of the Cantina’s illustrious reputaion rests on the afformentioned 70 bottle-strong inventory of tequilas and their amazing margaritas, the most famous of which is the “Millionaire’s Margarita,” a mixture of Patron anejo, Cointreau, and Grand Marnier. Daily specials feature deals on margaritas and many Mexican beers, which are represented here by all the best: Corona, Dos Equis, Negra Modelo, Tecate, Carta Blanca, Sol, and Pacifico.

Customers can order their food prepared to any degree of spiciness and a wide variety of vegetarian dishes is available. Everything is made to order, which takes some time, but it’s well worth the wait. Both authentic and freshly delicious, Cantina Dos Amigos will surely be feeding beachside residents for 20 more years to come.

Cantina Dos Amigos is located at 990 N A1A in Indialantic. They’re open Sunday through Thursday from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. and Friday and Saturday from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. All-day specials abound at the Cantina, beginning on Mondays with 99¢ longneck Buds and Bud Lights with lunch and dinner orders, while “$2 Tuesdays” feature $2 Mexican beers, $2.99 “House Gold” margaritas, and $2 off complete dinners. Wednesdays see 99¢ “House Gold” frozen margaritas with dinner and $1 off all other margaritas. “$3 Thursdays” feature $3 wings, select burgers and salads, as well as $3 Margaritaville margaritas and Bud or Bud Light pitchers with dinner orders. The Cantina shows appreciation for their many customers with a wide array of specials on the last Tuesday of each month, known appropriately enough as “Customer Appreciation Day.” Their popular and well-stocked $5.95 “All-U-Can-Eat” lunch buffet is available Monday through Friday from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. - a fabulous deal. Sunday features a $9.95 “All-U-Can-Eat” buffet which highlights fresh shrimp, available from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. The Cantina hosts live music in the patio area on the weekends and offers Gift Certificates. Join them for their Cinco de Mayo Celebration beginning Saturday, May 6th, at 11 a.m. and continuing on well into the evening. The event, which is expected to draw over 2,000 people, is one of the best in the area. The Cantina will close off the parking lot to accomodate revelers, beer trucks, food tents, and musician Dave Kury and his band. Call (321) 724-2183 or visit www.cantinadosamigos.com for details. Take-out orders are available, call ahead to have yours ready for pick-up. Kids menus and non-Mexican items like burgers, sandwiches, and wings are also available.