Foreman's Steak House

By Tobin Bennison

Of all the world's foods, none incites more passions and heated debate than steak.

Everyone's an expert. Whether the topic is optimal cooking methods, ideal temperatures, superior grill brands, indispensable utensils, the finest cuts, or the best magical incantations to intone while gazing into the coals, steak lovers the world over seem to argue about it more than they actually agree.

And woe betide the poor misguided soul who actually enjoys a dollop of sauce with his porterhouse. The way some people react, you'd think he just clubbed a fur seal.

A list of disparate schools of thought reads like a roster of quarrelsome Balkan states. Yet amid this swirl of serrated knife-rattling dissention is a paradise of peace and perfection right here in Indian Harbour Beach.

While the Republic of Argentine Grass-Fed Shorthorns are arguing over their constitution and The People's Dominion of Kobe Corn-Fed Longhorns are struggling to get their hibachis lit, civilized aficionados are dining in the rarefied and enlightened capital of the United Steaks of Excellence: Foreman's Steak House.

For over 15 years, the folks at Foreman's have been keeping even the fussiest beef eaters satisfied. Their secret? Kitschy wall hangings? Seventy-four blaring-to-the-hilt televisions? Hipper-than-thou waitresses wearing shorts no bigger than your napkin? Gimmicky nouveau cuisine ingredients? No. Nope. Never. And no again.

While other chains and independent steak houses are struggling to keep up with the latest trends, Foreman's is carrying on a steak-loving tradition rooted in simplicity, consistency and excellence. According to the brief history written on their menu, that tradition began nearly a century ago in a barn in rural Ohio before moving to our shores back in 1992.

Current proprietor Dennis Channell has been a firm believer in the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" philosophy ever since he took over from the original owners 8 years ago, and fittingly, Foreman’s emphasizes lean, phenomenally tasty steaks and pleasant service over the empty trappings of its many rivals. Because of this, Foreman’s boasts a loyal group of repeat clientele, some of whom dine there two to three times a week.

Foreman's is the kind of place your grandparents took you to. It's where they cut you bite-size morsels of bloody sirloin and let you lose the bib for the first time. This is where you fell in love with the smell coming from the kitchen and where you tasted your first honest-to-goodness steak.

That said, there’s nothing in the least bit musty or stubbornly backward about the place. Foreman’s is casually classy and friendly, and caters to every type of customer under the sun. During our visit, we shared the large dining room with early bird retirees, a smattering of young couples, local families and sunburnt out-of-towners. Yet despite their outward differences, they all clearly shared a love of excellent food.

Our server Diane –- one of many devoted, long-term employees –- made our meal even more delectable by her warm attention and easeful manner. By way of a preliminary sacrifice to the gracious steak gods who led us there, we chose stuffed mushrooms and a deliciously fresh shrimp cocktail appetizer. Others on the list include escargot, smoked salmon with mustard sauce, French onion soup and onion rings.

Our palates prepped for the beef feast Foreman’s amazing aroma promised, we got down to the business of choosing our cuts. Steak dinner options consist of an 18 oz. choice porterhouse, an 8 or 5 oz. filet mignon, two sizes of broiled strip loin (16 and 12 oz.), a 12 oz. broiled rib-eye, a 10 oz. Black Angus center cut top sirloin, braised tenderloin tips with mushroom gravy and chopped beef tenderloin.

I'm assuming the knives were provided as a polite formality, because both the filet and the porterhouse were cooked to tender, pastel pink medium rare perfection. Seasoned steak lovers will be familiar with the guttural, almost tribal grunt we emitted as our eyes rolled back in our heads; it's a gesture that simply can't be faked, and it was repeated for the duration of our unhurried, 2-hour long meal as each chunk melted in our mouths.

All dinners are served with fresh baked bread, a crisp house salad (with your choice of dressing: house-made Italian Vinaigrette, Thousand Island, French, Ranch, Honey Mustard, or Blue Cheese), either rightfully “famous” stewed tomatoes or vegetables and a choice of potato: baked, a large hash-browned patty (topped with melted cheese, if you prefer), baked sweet potato, or traditional steak fries. For a bit extra, you can get a number of sides: béarnaise sauce, Caesar salad, fresh mushrooms sautéed in butter, sautéed onions, French-fried onions, or grilled chicken added to your Caesar salad.

The hefty steak fries seemed like the perfect accompaniment that night, and although they were tasty enough dipped in the steak juice, we slathered them in stewed tomatoes. More like a chunky compote, their sweetness was a prefect compliment to the rest of the meal. Hell, I’d have put it in my merlot, if I wasn’t worried about inviting shocked stares. The béarnaise was equally fantastic; I even snuck a few spoonfuls well after the steak had been consumed.

Though we didn’t exercise the option, a generous warm-water lobster tail or shrimp (fried or sautéed) can be added to any steak dinner to create a “surf and turf” meal. Proper seafood dinners include one or two lobster tails, fried shrimp, broiled shrimp in garlic, herbs and sherry, or a fresh fish of the day. While you’ve most likely come for the steak, don’t give these seafood entrees short shrift. Additionally, Foreman’s serves prime rib (14 or 10 oz.), popular center-cut pork chops with apple sauce, broiled lamb chops with mint jelly, teriyaki chicken, a steak filet sandwich and great hamburgers.

So, to steak lovers of all persuasions: put down your knives, tear down that wall and get back to common ground.

Because Forman’s is built on love.

Foreman's Steak House (1940 Hwy. A1A; Indian Harbor Beach; 779-8980) is open Monday through Friday for lunch from 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Dinner Hours are 7 days a week from 5 p.m. to close. The restaurant features a full liquor bar, call-ahead take out service and a special children’s menu. What’s more, all the wines from their impressive list are available by the glass. Foreman’s is closed only two days a year: Thanksgiving and Super Bowl Sunday. For a mere $6, dinners can be shared, and come with an additional house salad, vegetable selection and potato choice. A $25 “baker’s dozen” of Foreman’s famous hamburgers can be ordered for take away. Call ahead for availability.