Gigi's Restaurant

By Tobin Bennison

How a great place like Gigi's has managed to thrive beneath our radar for so long is something of a mystery.

True, the place isn't awash in garish, beachy colors; its sign isn't exactly eye-catching; its location along a relatively uncrowded stretch of A1A may not warrant much notice, and its varied menu may at first seem frustratingly unclassifiable, but they're all features which make Gigi's the ideal Beachside Resident restaurant.

While we're fiercely loyal to unassuming, family-owned eateries, we residents are often too busy -- or too lazy -- to give them a whirl. More often, we simply don't notice the places we pass on a regular basis. The beachside is in such a state of flux that we rarely register landmarks newer than a Lowe's or older than the Breeze Thru Mart down Satellite Beach way. Happily situated between these two markers and huddled in the plaza that houses Balsa Bill's and Son on the Beach, Gigi's proudly defies description in an area accustomed to culinary safety and comfort.

Though occasionally adventurous, residents prefer to stick to tried-and-true haunts or flit from flit from a handful of standbys according to their stomachs' whim. Pack a hungry bunch of us into a large SUV and chaos reigns. You, the driver, want seafood, the guy proudly sitting shotgun wants pasta, the six rambunctious souls in the back desire steaks and salads, and that contrary skinflint friend who's always bumming rides shouts defiantly for fish and chips from the "way back."

You could cross the bridge and steer into an overpriced, mediocre chain, and no one would blame you. But your locally-focused conscience keeps you on a coastal trajectory, reluctantly in search of the first Chinese buffet that peeps into view in an effort to satiate a small crowd of clashing appetites.

Do yourself a favor and plug Gigi's Restaurant into your GPS. Upon arrival, watch as your passengers gaze in slathering delight at the wonderfully varied menu. There's something for everyone here, and owner/chef Aldinado "Gigi" Andrade prides himself on his wide selection. Though Italian classics make strong appearances, American favorites and some of Brevard's tastiest fish and chips round out what's best described by Andrade as "International" cuisine.

A native of Brazil, Gigi (as he's affectionately known to his faithful clientele), learned his craft in Boston during the early '90s, and moved to Indian Harbor Beach 3 years ago with his family: his wife (and co-worker) Mirian, and their two children, Kevin, 8, and Kimberly, 4. As a devoted family man who often finds himself cooking for impromptu gatherings of friends and relatives, Gigi understands the importance of simple, unadorned sustenance, and as an inspired chef, he recognizes the necessity for surprising flavor. His creations, though based around the home-cooked, hearty core of comfort food, are all imbued with traces of subtle invention.

Our first belated introduction to Gigi's was a sumptuous made-from-scratch feast illustrative of his menu's broad scope. The only problem with the food was the difficulty in pinpointing a signature Gigi's dish. Everything on the menu is prepared with equal finesse, from the soups and salads to the veal and steak -- all of which are understated masterworks of tastiness.

We started off with two soups: clam chowder and cream of asparagus. The clam chowder was brilliant, generously swimming in chunks of firm clam and, as if in homage to his Massachusetts schooling, better than anything I've tasted this side of the Charles River. The vibrant green asparagus soup, garnished with slivers of red pepper and a swirl of woody Worcestershire, was notable for its lack of asparagus fiber, a common drawback of this warming favorite. Gigi's patiently perfected a thrice-cooked technique which banishes all traces of the pesky threads, resulting in an "essence" of asparagus which defies any pedestrian "soup" classification. This selfsame care is employed in each of his soups, which are prepared daily as part of a rotating cast of fresh soups de jour.

After a delicious blackened chicken salad (grilled, blackened breasts served over fresh mixed greens, sliced cool pears, chopped walnuts, a heavenly blend of crisp proscuitto and pancetta, and crumblings of tart Gorgonzola cheese), we assumed that all of the other choices were just as incredible. They include a classic garden, Caesar, salmon (tossed with diced, sauteed salmon, artichoke hearts, black olives, roasted red peppers, pickles, onions, and feta cheese with a balsamic reduction), and a "pomodoro" (fresh mozzarella and tomatoes topped with basil and one of his specially seasoned olive oils). In fact, Gigi regaled us with a story of how one frustrated customer couldn't reproduce his dressing at home. As Gigi's are carefully infused with a special blend of fresh herbs and spices, it came as no surprise. The unique flavors of his oils make his salads the beauties they are.

We opted out of his appetizers (comprised of fried calamari, vegetable egg rolls in a light ginger sauce, eggplant stuffed with chicken, carrots, spinach and cheese topped with a creamy tomato basil sauce, shrimp-topped bruschetta, and a fish platter) the better to squeeze in a few of his celebrated entrees.

Though the tender chicken marsala (sauteed with mushrooms and marsala wine) and the veal saltimbocca (filets sauteed with sage, mushrooms, and chunks of top-notch proscuitto) were stellar -- especially the veal, its saltiness offset by the calming milkiness of fresh, melted mozzarella, -- picking them was a difficult endeavor, to say the very least. These include chicken Francaise (egg-battered and sauteed with white wine and capers), chicken piccata, chicken and shrimp Morenga (sauteed with diced tomatoes, mushrooms, basil, artichoke hearts, garlic and white wine), a 12 oz. sirloin strip topped with Gorgonzola, beef tenderloin with a reduced port wine sauce, pork chops, and a mixed grill comprised of chicken, pork chop, smoked sausage, and shrimp. One taste of the veal, however, convinced us that we'd made the right choice. Anyone who adores fresh mozzarella knows how expensive it can be, and you'd expect its inclusion here with the veal to raise the price of the plate exponentially. Wonderfully, and very generously, it doesn't. Never before has such an Italian standard tasted so new and so fresh. And never before has fine dining been presented so unpretentiously and made so affordable.

Though well satisfied by this time, we couldn't help but greedily order something from his seafood section. We were presented with lightly fried crab cakes (built with hefty wedges of fresh crab and a cream sauce whispered with lobster) and some of his famous fish and chips. If one were bullied into choosing a signature Gigi's dish, his fish and chips might claim top listing. Made from firm cod and haddock, they're some of the lightest and most flavorful we've had. But other seafood items vie for attention: fresh, whole clams, mussels Dijonnaise, seared tuna, grilled salmon and blackened tilapia. Deep-fried seafood choices include a fish and shrimp combo, jumbo shrimp, and a clam platter.

A run-down of Gigi's pasta dishes begs mention as well. There's penne Arabiatta (prepared with chicken, tomatoes, scallions, capers, and basil in marinara), chicken fungi (with mushrooms, roasted red peppers, spinach, sun-dried tomatoes and fettucine laced with cream sauce), four cheese ravioli, shrimp scampi, tortellini primavera, linguine del mare, salmon gratinate, shrimp puttanesca, and chicken parmigiana with linguine. If the accompanying vegetables (cooked to crisp perfection) aren't enticing enough, praise Gigi for his proud adherence to boiling all of his pasta al dente, evidence alone against unfair charges of culinary dabbling.

After a heavenly bread pudding (made from Mirian's recipe with an insistence on using hard-to-find Portuguese potato bread) and a rich chocolate mousse (house-made with deep-flavored imported chocolate), we were convinced of Gigi's mastery. But as delicious as each item is, and as much as you want to keep Gigi's Restaurant small and local, your heart yearns for him to move on to bigger and better things. Seize the moment and try one of the beachside's finest unsung spots. You can thank us later.

Gigi's Restaurant, located at 1771 Hwy. A1A in Satellite Beach, is open Monday through Friday from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. for lunch and reopens for dinner from 4 p.m. until 9 p.m. Saturday hours are from 4 p.m. to 9 p.m. Look for a rotating roster of daily specials (including healthy salads, soups, entrees and desserts) or call ahead for take-out orders, especially for their popular fish and chips, which can be enjoyed either in the airy dining room or the adjacent bar area, where 7 beers are served on tap. Gigi's also offers an impressive, affordable wine list, featuring a variety of cabernets, merlots, chardonnays, and chiantis. Equipped to accommodate 85 customers at one time, Gigi's also boasts an adjoining dining room for private parties. The family-friendly eatery provides highchairs and an extensive kid's menu as well. Call (321) 777-9455 for take-out requests, reservations of 5 or more, private party arrangements, or catering service (please give 24-hr. notice).