Long Doggers By Tobin Bennison When it comes to food, beachside residents are a rather picky, ornery bunch. We want fresh food, but we don’t want to pay out the wazoo for it; we want our restaurants to exhibit an island-style ambience, but we can spot froufrou fakery a mile away; we want to take our sweet time at the table, but we demand our food be served promptly; we hate crowds, but will endure them so long as we notice a few familiar faces in the mix; and we want casual, but we detest mixing with cologned, convertibled clientele. As with many things in life, I’ve found that if you try and force a restaurant to gel harmoniously, it rarely comes together the way you originally envisioned. This especially holds true of many beachside eateries; some of their individual components are pleasing enough to us, but the sought-after sum is often wanting. The way we go on sometimes, you’d think we were all restaurateurs. I’m a big believer in letting things go. You can make the proper preparations (location, decor, ingredients) and set things in motion with a decent enough cook, but you have to give ample room for that certain something to play its vague role. If you believe in it, everything will come together effortlessly, come what may. The creators of Long Doggers seem to agree with me. Co-founders LJ Burr and Al Steiginga opened the first eatery in Indialantic back in 1997 built on a solid foundation of fresh ingredients, good service, and a relaxed, seaside atmosphere. Shortly thereafter, two more Long Doggers appeared in Satellite Beach and Melbourne. A fourth location in Daytona Beach is set to open soon, bringing the founders one step closer to seeing a total of five Long Doggers open before the year is up. Now, it may seem like a waste of breath to bother reviewing Long Doggers as it’s so widely known and loved round these parts, but let this serve as a gentle reminder that it epitomizes the kind of casual beachside dining all residents long for. This is especially true of our favorite location in Satellite Beach. Managed ably by John Vicari, Satellite’s spot adheres to Long Doggers’ aesthetic of providing a “radically relaxed grill and brew” at incredibly reasonable prices, but the enveloping lushness of its outdoor landscaping and breezy patio has kept us coming back numerous times. If you’re heading south down South Patrick Drive, you’ll see it on the left, and once you enter and take a seat, you’d never know you were so close to the road. The exterior is ringed with tropical plants and palms and the entry opens up into the main wood patio. Beneath a semi-transparent roof and several swirling ceiling fans huddle a wealth of picnic-size benches surrounded by broad, open window-spaces. The south wall shelters a comfy tiki bar from which they dole out two-for-one domestic drafts Tuesdays and Thursdays from 8 p.m. to close. Fall is fast approaching, and with its promise of balmier weather, you’d be hard pressed to find a better outdoor pub and grub spot. The interior is just as inviting with its surf shop-inspired decor, tabled seating, and spacious counter top. That fragrance coming from the bustling kitchen is the unmistakable scent of their famed wings and hot dogs -- voted “Brevard’s Best” every year since 1998. Long Doggers serves up a wide variety of Hebrew National beef frankfurters in a regular or foot-long size, with some of the favorites being the “Reuben” (with swiss and thousand island dressing), the “High Life” (topped with chili, cheese, bacon, onions and jalapenos on the side), and the good old-fashioned “MORK” (mustard, onions, relish and ketchup). Along with cheese, straight chili, slaw and kraut dogs, they prepare a “Johnny O” (topped with slaw and chili) and a hugely popular sausage dog, slathered with grilled peppers and onions. They’re both filling and decadent, yet freshly satisfying; they won’t lay you out for the rest of the evening. Along with their award-winning crispy wings (served hot, medium, or mild, and laced with your choice of sauces like BBQ, garlic teriyaki or traditional teriyaki and accompanied with fresh celery and cool bleu cheese dressing), their “First Session” appetizers include steamed clams, sea-fresh shrimp kabobs, chili, an excellent clam chowder, and thick waffle fries smothered in melted cheddar cheese and jalapenos. The cracked peppercorn seared tuna (always sashimi grade), served with cucumber wasabi ranch dressing and balsamic teriyaki is simply perfect and goes down as one of our favorites. Long Doggers could just serve their salads, and they’d still be okay in our book. The abundant “Surf Shop” (with crisp cucumber, carrots, tomatoes, green peppers and onions) and the traditional Ceasar cover the cooler end of the scale while the “Hot Mexican” (greens topped with cheese, chili and a soothing sour cream), satisfy spicier palates. A choice of chicken, tuna, mahi or shrimp (prepared blackened, grilled or with teriyaki, lemon pepper or with Hawaiian-style marinade) over their regular greens or Ceasar-style round out a welcome choice of coolly refeshing salads. Items from “Mr. Zogg’s Grill” include delicious fall-off-the-bone ribs, fish and chips, and some of the tastiest, fattest burgers in town. Vegetarians will dig the inclusion of garden, boca, and black bean burgers, all served with lettuce, tomato, onion, and a zesty horseradish sauce. Though Long Doggers’ proper dinners (which come with slaw, a choice of either fries, baked beans or corn on the cob) -- like full and half-racks of ribs, Hawaiian chicken (smothered in sweet teriyaki and pineapple rings), chicken stuffed with bacon, cheddar and grilled onions, a juicy sirloin, and “Surf and Turf” (grilled mahi or tuna prepared blackened, grilled, teriyaki or lemon pepper style with a hefty shrimp kabob) -- are big temptations, we always come back for their generous sandwiches. There’s a beef sandwich (their tasty take on a Philly cheesesteak), a Reuben on a kaiser roll, a mahi or grilled tuna, rolls with fillings like pork, clams and lobster, and a fried fish sandwich. I’m a fowl man myself, and would love to try their other chicken sandwiches -- Hawaiian style (with pineapple and teriyaki), Southwest style (chili and cheddar), or simply blackened, grilled, or marinated in teriyaki -- but I just can’t get past the Cool Ranch chicken: a grilled breast, layered with two greaseless strips of bacon, just the right amount of ranch, and lettuce and thick-cut fresh tomatoes. I eat ranch once in a blue moon, and can probably enjoy it so fully because I hate it slathered over everything on my plate. The economic dollop provided here lends flavor without seeming stingy. Overall, it really is a healthy, guilt-free sandwich and one of their best. Long Doggers is the perfect spot for hungry beachside residents with its blend of affordable, fresh food, and laid-back, family-friendly environment. I’m convinced the place would never work in any other coastal area, because it caters so well to each of our particular peculiarities. Other imitators might get the food and the staffing right, throw up a potted palm or two and crowd the place with all the necessary surf trappings, but they rarely get that ineffable beachside identity down. They should learn that it forms despite all your efforts and plans. You’ve either got it or you don’t. Long Doggers has it. Satellite Beach’s Long Doggers is located at 1201 S. Patrick Dr. (773-5558) and is open from 10:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. 7 days a week. Sundays see 29-cent clams all day, while Mondays offer 29-cent wings from 8 p.m. to close. Thursdays special includes 2-4-1 domestic drafts from 8 p.m. to close. A steel drum band plays Tuesday evenings. Other locations include: Indialantic (890 A1A; 725-1115), Melbourne (2870 Post Rd.; 751-4448); and coming soon, a location in Daytona Beach (2452 S. Nova Rd.). Call ahead for take-out orders or pull up to the drive-thru window when you don’t have time to stop in. The Long Doggers crowd caters to all ages and all walks of life; check the “Grommets” menu for children’s items.