Mangroves Restaurant

By Tobin Bennison

When we told people we’d be reviewing Mangroves for this issue, their response was pretty much the same: “Mangroves? Where’s that?” A few went further and asked where it was “at,” which I really hate. I didn’t illumine those people, but told everyone else that if they ever bothered to get off their duffs and venture north on A1A past the 520 intersection for a change, they’d find it on their left in the Sunseed Co-op plaza.

I’ve no right to complain, though; I’ve known of the place for three years now, and only went in for the first time last month. I wish I’d gone sooner. I can’t count how many times I’ve lamented the dearth of good seafood in the area. It was providential that my visiting mother-in-law suggested we dine there on the eve of her departure back to France. She noticed that their sign promised “The Flavor of Florida” and her refined palate yearned for something more representative than a hush puppy.

Now what constitutes the “flavor” of Florida is open to debate, but wherever I am in the world, impressions of my home state flood back to me when I bite into a well-grilled fresh fish or a cool slice of mango. That these two ingredients are featured together so prominently on Mangroves menu is nothing short of miraculous.

We began our meal with appetizers of baked spinach artichoke dip with Romano cheese served with a fresh honey wheat loaf ($5.95) and six River Fritters ($6.95), stuffed with crab and conch. That part was easy. Choosing from a long list of delicious-sounding entrees proved more difficult. Mangroves offers a wide selection of surf and turf, all of which come with soup or salad, and we settled on the Pistachio Encrusted Grouper topped with warm mango butter ($18.95), blackened Baja tiger shrimp and Mahi crowned with a generous dollop of guacamole and tri-pepper salsa ($17.95), and the grilled Caribbean Coconut Flounder ($18.95), which came topped with fresh strawberries and mango butter. Needless to say, we all poked liberally at each other’s well-stacked plates throughout the meal and found the sweetness of the tropical fruit perfectly complemented the lightly briny taste of the seafood.

The jungly indoor setting also played a major role in creating our perfect Sunday dinner. The lush decor - palm trees and plants, a fountain, and the cool green colors of the mural all contributed to the feeling of seclusion and tranquility. It’s a nice spot to bring your visiting mother-in-law, of course, but it’s perfect for a romantic evening for two.

I returned some weeks later to speak with Mangroves’ owner, Lettye Baggett and her brother, Chef John Phillips, and was frankly surprised by their warmth and friendliness. So often these days, excellent, photo-worthy food somehow grants its creators an unnaproachable degree of pretentiousness. Lettye and John couldn’t be any more down-to-earth. Both originally from Cocoa Beach, the two treated me like an old friend and clearly love what they do, and this seems to have rubbed off on their staff. They insisted I stay and try some other items from the menu, and while I waited, I chatted with the waitresses, all of whom lauded Mangroves’ food with the zeal only dedicated fans can muster.

Soon I was introduced to one of the house favorites, Chicken Manfredi, Phillips’ homage to an old friend and fellow chef. It has to be seen and tasted to be believed. It’s a mountain of chicken stuffed with artichokes, scallions, tomatoes, and portobello mushrooms, and then covered lightly with alfredo sauce - a steal at $17.95. I sampled the Cocoa Banana Boat ($6.95: coconut-fried bananas served with pineapple and warm mango butter) and the warm Walnut Glazed Brie ($9.95), served with amaretto, brown sugar and fruit. When it slipped off my fork onto the counter, everyone laughed knowingly and continued reaching into the many plates for mouthfuls.

Mangroves recently celebrated its 5th Anniversary, and it was with some shame that I wished them well; after all, why had it taken me so long to get there? The place has it all: great ambience and a friendly vibe, excellent service, generous portions of heavenly food, and very reasonable prices. Oh, and the location can’t be beat either. Mangroves is where it’s at.

Mangroves, The Flavor of Florida (6615 N. Atlantic Ave., Cape Canaveral) is open for lunch Monday through Friday from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. and dinner is served Sunday through Thursday from 4 p.m. to 9 p.m. and Fridays and Saturdays from 4 p.m. to 11 p.m. An Early Bird menu is available from 4 p.m. to 6 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday. Live jazz is performed on Fridays from 7 p.m. to 10 p.m. Call (321) 783-4548 for reservations and information.