DJON'S STEAK AND LOBSTER HOUSE

When Djon Pepaj opened Djon's Chophouse in Melbourne Beach in 1993, he set a standard by which all the area's upscale restaurants have since been judged.

Fifteen years on, fresh from a remodeling and name change, Djon's Steak and Lobster House continues to fulfill his initial promise of providing a fine dining paragon that breaches the barrier separating dedicated gastronomes from curious visitors.

If the words "coulis" or "reduction" come easily to your lips, its likely due to Pepaj's ongoing quest to broaden the gustatory horizons of Space Coast diners. Hitherto, such high falutin' terms were hardly unknown in the area, yet his efforts helped popularize their usage in culinary parlance and their employment in local cuisine. Other Pepaj ventures City Tropics and Andiamo, while more populist in spirit, are instrumental in molding a new generation of palates.

As a confrère, or member, of the august Chaîne des Rôtisseurs, a society dedicated to the preservation and dissemination of fine-dining principles, Pepaj takes his food seriously, but he's also refreshingly forward-thinking in his approach. Inspired by the notion that food is as much about tradition as it is about evolution and change, Djon's revamped image evinces a move away from haute cuisine's staid connotations toward an enthusiastic embracement of current trends.

That said, Djon's menu is still informed by classic methods and ingredients, but they've been elevated to intriguing new heights, thanks to Pepaj's wide travels. Scouring restaurants from Paris to Manhattan and nearly every culinary hot-spot in between for decorative ideas and recipes, the former aerospace engineer has transformed the vintage, men's clubbish interior into a modern dining room worthy of a cherished Côte d'Azur vista. In a subtle reflection of this new, open design, Djon's places refined dining emblems such as rack of lamb and Porterhouse steak beside more recent discoveries like Kobe beef burgers and sesame-encrusted tuna sashimi. The juxtapostion is hardly unique, but it's nice to see it practiced amidst such an elegant ambiance.
Though it's hard not to be overwhelmed by Djon's new look, it avoids outright distraction by emphasizing the negative space of its Victorian shell, which dates back to the 1870s. Regulars will find that little has changed in the sunken front piano bar, newly-dubbed "the Red Shoe Bar," where diners can enjoy a live jazz trio, but beyond the beautiful fireplace and the well-stocked wine cellar, starkly clean lines flow through a bright passage to the main dining area. Here, intimate white tablecloth islands surround Djon's centerpiece, a large table over which a sleek Swarovski crystal chandelier hangs. This design facilitates more efficient service while achieving some spectacular aesthetic aims. Large windows allow the tropically-landscaped outdoor dining area (replete with a lush fountain) to blend with the interior, injecting a note of casual breeziness to an otherwise formal setting.

After starting off with the lobster bisque laced with Dry Sack sherry, we opted for beautifully-presented appetizers that seemed to most represent the spirit of Djon's: large sea scallops served over richly-hued lobster risotto with perfectly crisp asparagus and a perennial favorite, melt-in-your-mouth sesame-encrusted tuna sashimi. Other appetizers like king crab spring rolls, escargot, and a "Bourbon Street" jumbo lump crab cake (with chorizo, and tomato coulis) vie for attention alongside two inimitable Djon creations: a seafood crêpe (scallops, shrimp and shallots rolled in a thin slice of eggplant with chardonnay pesto cream sauce), and the chilled seafood "plateau," which includes six oysters, six clams, an 11-lb. Maine lobster, king crab and a shrimp cocktail with mignonette sauce. Several varieties of salads are on hand as well. We were so impressed with the asparagus that accompanied our meal, that we'd go back to try their blanched asparagus salad, prepared with Kalamata olives, feta, vine-ripe tomatoes, and a balsamic reduction dressing.

As Djon's new name suggests, premium, dry aged steaks and lobster are central entrée features. As lobster figured deliciously in two of our appetizers, we took longtime General Manager Paul Esche's advice and ordered seared wild striped sea bass (one of the evening's specials) and the Filet Oscar. The fish, served over risotto with artichokes and glazed in a caper beurre blanc, couldn't have been cooked better, and the portion was more than generous. The 8-oz. steak was fantastic -- cooked to ideal tenderness, topped with those lovely asparagus spears and lump crab meat in a light béarnaise sauce and accompanied by gratinéed potatoes Dauphinois.

Everything on Djon's menu sounds appealing, and judging from the dishes we enjoyed, equally satisfying. Along with the 10-oz. Filet Mignon and a 42-oz. Porterhouse, steak aficionados will be pleased by the hand-cut on premises New York strip which can be served au poivre; hand-crushed peppercorns are lightly pounded into the strip which is then seared, flambéed with cognac and finished with cream. Veal Chop Djon (prepared with white wine Gorgonzola spinach sauce) joins items like rack of lamb (served with a cabernet sauvignon sauce), split roasted chicken, and the aforementioned Kobe beef burger, which can be topped with Maytag blue cheese or carmelized onions.

Seafood selections include large, live Maine lobsters, roasted lobster tails, grouper (sauteéd with mushrooms, fresh tomato and leeks in a white wine butter sauce, or baked, and encrusted with crab in a citrus beurre blanc), Salmon Florentine (seared with roasted tomato, spinach, and a tomato pesto coulis), and yellowfin tuna. The seared sea bass (topped with chives, rosemary, thyme and garlic), however, remains a popular Djon's favorite.
Dessert items include a cheesecake torte, crème brulee, chocolate mousse, bread pudding, and raspberry sorbet, but in an effort to extend our stay, we chose the apples and pecans Goldschläger. Along with Bananas Foster, it's one of Djon's two flambéed treats prepared tableside. It's also an almost essential facet of the Djon's experience.

In an expertly orchestrated spectacle, Mr. Esche sautéed crisp slices of Gala apples in butter, then added some sugar and pecans. A fresh lemon was then squeezed through a cloth atop the mixture, to bring out the sweetness of the sugars and the coming liqueurs. After frying to a golden hue, Esche poured a dash of the Cuarenta Y Tres (also called Licor 43) and a bright flash of flame rose from the pan. As the heat subsided and the ingredients absorbed the vanilla flavor, Goldschläger was added, adding a woodsy note of cinnamon and kicking up the flames a final time. The delicious mixture was then spooned over premium vanilla ice cream in the perfect ending to a impressive meal.

Though its look and name have changed, Djon's still enjoys a solid reputation as a reliable dining destination for loyal adherents and a trusted recommendation for the uninitiated.

Djon's Steak and Lobster House is located at 522 Ocean Avenue in Melbourne Beach. Dinner is served Monday through Thursday from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m., Fridays and Saturdays from 5 to 11 p.m., and Sundays from 5 to 9 p.m. Lunch (served Monday through Friday from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.) features many dinner appetizers, inventive salads, items like sliced New York strip, four cheese tortellini, lobster salad and the Kobe beef burger. Sandwiches include a mahi style, chicken breast, and tender filet tips with melted brie on ciabatta bread.

Live piano featured nightly, with a live jazz trio performing live in the new Red Shoe Bar Thursday through Sunday beginning at 7 p.m. Call (321) 722-2737 for reservations, or make use of a new feature on their website -- www.djons.com -- which allows you to receive emailed reservation confirmation and timely reminders. You can also check the website for information on other restaurants in the Pepaj family, City Tropics Bistro and Andiamo Café and Bar.