Paradise in the Yucatan

By Sierra Shea Brasher

You can't help but fall in love with this pueblo on Mexico's Yucatan Peninsula. Tulum is so laid-back and tranquil that it only recently began offering fine amenities such as paved roads and internet cafes. It’s ironic to think that the people who inhabited this area created a complex calendar, as time seems to be so unimportant when you visit Tulum.

This Mayan architectural site perched above pristine white sand beaches and turquoise waters of the Caribbean has yet to be fully developed and exploited like neighboring tourist-trapping cities Cancun, Cozumel and Playa del Carmen. A symbol of defiance in Mayan history, Tulum was never conquered by the Spanish conquistadors, but it won’t remain untouched for long.
If you want to enjoy Tulum for all of its splendor and peacefulness, you'd better book your ticket soon, as plans for an international airport are in its not-so-distant future. With arrival of the new airport, the ease of transportation will only mean that hordes of future visitors will have no problem ruining what makes Tulum so alluring.

Just 80 miles south of the Cancun airport (via one bumpy "highway") lies the hidden jewel of the Yucatan. Watch your speed as your cruise out of the airport in your rental car. La Policia are waiting to pull over unsuspecting tourists and hassle them for every dime they are worth. I was pulled over for going 100 km/hour in a 50 km/hour zone, and I had to sweet-talk the police officer in my broken Spanish to avoid paying him the $300 fine he demanded.

What was once a heaven for traveling hippies from all over the world is now also an attractive vacation spot for the upper-class crowd who are drawn to Tulum's five-star resorts and day spas. It has turned into so much more than just a gathering place for the vibrant backpackers, barefoot gypsies and topless Europeans. Famous also for its breathtaking beaches and water activities, it is actually more well-known for its postclassic architecture, and it is one of the most visited Mayan ruins on the Yucatan.

The first time I ventured there, my friends and I rented a cabana on the beach with no electricity for around $40/night. With nothing but a mosquito net and some sandy sheets separating me from all the little critters and wonders on the beach and in the ocean, I felt like I was living in a Corona advertisement. With the faint noise of bongo drums (being played by nearby hippies on the beach), I drifted into deep sleep with no problem (yes, the tequila might have had something to do with it.)

There’s nothing like waking up to the sun’s rays peeking through cracks in a palm-covered hut, the salty smell of the sea, the soothing sound of waves crashing against the shore and the slight buzz of mosquitoes swarming around your bed. Not knowing or caring what time is it and with no agenda or set schedule, I was able to pass my days doing exactly what I wanted to do, without interruptions. The simplicity of life in this easy-going town was almost too good to be true.

After spending the morning scuba diving or snorkeling the Great Mesoamerican Reef (the second longest reef in the world, stretching all the way down to Belize), it’s time to check out some ruins. Make sure to wear some really comfortable shoes and pack on the sunscreen because it’s not just a walk in the woods. With the sun beating down and the remnants of last night’s margarita still in your system, hiking through Castillo (The Castle) can be quite a treacherous, though rewarding journey.

The largest and most famous of the ruins, Castillo rests at the edge of a 40-foot limestone cliff near the Temple of Frescoes. At the top is a temple decorated with stucco ornamentation and remnants of detailed frescoes. The front wall pays tributes to the Mayan serpent god, Kukucan, who was introduced to the Maya by the Toltecs. The view is more than worth the hike, and afterwards you can go for a swim in the tiny nearby cove to cool off.

The afternoon siesta is my favorite part of Mexican culture. After a long day of snorkeling, hiking and sun worshiping, rest your weary head on that handmade hammock and doze off to the sound of the ocean. Feeling fully refreshed, you can wander into town for a glimpse of the colorful Mayan culture at its best. Ignore the pothole-filled road leading into centro; it's in no way representative of the beauty this town has to offer. From the fresh mangos, papayas and avocados you’ll find in the colorful outdoor farmer’s market and the ceramic souvenirs and handmade jewelry filling the shops, to the murals painted on rustic stucco walls and the constant melodies of Bob Marley oozing from the bars and restaurants, there is nothing uninteresting about Tulum’s downtown scene.

Make sure to get a taste of the Yucatecan cuisine, which resembles Mexican fare but with a kick of pickled onions, blackened habanero chiles and lemonade spiked with chaya, a spinach-like leafy vegetable. Traditional Yucatecan dishes are made with local fruits, chilis and other spices that were brought by immigrants from Lebanon, France, Cuba and New Orleans. And, of course, no meal in Mexico is complete without a margarita to aid in digestion.

After spending just a few days in Tulum, you’ll definitely see why so many of its visitors never want to leave. Leave your watches at home and your itineraries in the cabana. Take a holiday from your typical vacation and venture to a place where hippies, gypsies, history buffs, ocean lovers and resort dwellers can all get along in perfect Mayan harmony.